The whole thing has a magnet in it, so that being brought close to a strong magnet forces the coupler to swing up—just like this track—allowing the loco to uncouple. Needless to say, this bit of track will work only with those Tomix locos so fitted. It will not work with Kato locos. Japanese instructions included How does the Tomix uncoupler work? Japanese instructions included. Followers 0.
Recommended Posts. They worked but uncoupling could still be frustrating with having to uncouple over the magnet and then hope things operated correct when you wanted to then shove the cars back using the delayed action feature and not have them accidentally recouple when the locomotive shudders over a switch or something.
We ended up using picks more than the magnets. I go to a guys house for op sessions where he uses an olive pick. You can get them at any grocery store. I think they work better than a skewer. The downside is they are not anywhere near as long as a skewer.
Logtrain , Mar 1, Maybe I should do a little experimenting, being as I have so many different couplers. WPZephyrFan , Mar 1, I say pick is the way to go. I had the Rix fork thingy but it was too thick to fit between n-scale cars. Maybe they have one specifically for N? Doug A. I used the magnets on my first and only other layout in the late seventies. I now use the skewers for the layout I am now building. So much more reliable. To push cars where I can not use the skewer, such as inside buildings or under covered areas I uncouple then push one coupler to the side and back up the engine so the couplers are on the side of each other.
Then when the car or cars are spotted I can move forward and be on the way to the next job. Last edited by a moderator: Mar 12, If I understood the posts in this thread, it appears that uncoupling using magnets or other mechanical methods is not favored. Only manual methods using picks of one sort or another are the preferred method. Can this be true? IMO having to manually uncouple cars is not how I would want to do it.
Of course I don't yet have a layout so I can't offer a definitive response. If there are other members who have successfully implemented automatic uncoupling I would like to here of their experiences and methods.
See ya Ron. Switchman , Mar 2, So, I doubled the magnets up stacked 2 pairs on top of each other. Additionally, I placed a small spacer between the top pair. For the spacer I used a thin strip of foam roadbed. The spacer seems to help keep both couplers from slewing to the same side when over the magnets.
With these changes I was able to get essentially percent uncoupling with the 2 sets of test cars I was using. You can uncouple magnetic coupler equipped cars. Albert in N : With uncoupler magnet track sections, you should be able to uncouple MicroTrains, McHenry Athearn , Atlas, or similar coupler equipped cars and locos ones that have little metal rods angled forward from the movable coupler halfs.
Simply stop the train with the couplers over the magnet and back slightly. Then pull the train forward and the couplers should have released. You can back slowly and push the uncoupled car back and leave it. Over the track magnet, the couplers will have separated so that they are not hooked together and can be pushed into a siding. Back up past the uncoupler magnet to couple cars ready to be added to your train. Be aware that a train moving over an uncoupler magnet can uncouple if it pauses or jerks.
If it moves smoothly, the train stays coupled. Hopefully they will soon appear in hobby shops. It seems to couple and not stay uncoupled. Ron Quote from: Albert in N on March 04, , PM With uncoupler magnet track sections, you should be able to uncouple MicroTrains, McHenry Athearn , Atlas, or similar coupler equipped cars and locos ones that have little metal rods angled forward from the movable coupler halfs.
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